Romania/Bulgaria-Memories of Danube, Carpathian Mountains, Dracula, Ottomans, Communist and Toilet!

This summer we visited Romania and Bulgaria. Of course I knew we will see many orthodox churches, Beautiful Carpathian Mountains and rivers, talk about Communism, Tyranny and Dracula, but this visit turned out to me much more than that. Let me explain.

We took the Lufthansa flight Frankfurt to Bucharest and landed very late, exactly at midnight at the Otopeni Airport outside of Bulgaria. The airport is very very small and old. I could say like our old Hyderabad (Begumpet) airport, but that would not be accurate, Begumpet was more organised and 'Modern'. Will come back to that later. Trust me it is fun!

When we reached the Hotal, safely, it was a very pleasant surprise. Our Hotel Suite was beautiful, rather lavish, and complete with two adjoining rooms and lavish living room complete with TV and Netflix logged in.

Bucharest is an old city with a lot and lot of history. Romanians kings, Tsars, Nicolae Ceaușescu, Salvs, Germans, Ottomans,  and many more.

One interesting fact is that after the Great War, this city was under the so-called area of influence of French. The inner circle of the city is largely made to resemble Paris. Many guides don’t forget to call it 'mini Paris' complete with an 'Arch de Triumph'. But the other parts (also the interiors) reminds Ameerpet, Dilsukhnagar areas of Hyderabad... Large billboards all over, many posters stuck on all buildings, new apartment projects ads, Many political and election posters stuck on the walls, poles, bus stands, lot of graffiti etc.,

As it has long connection with Ottomans, there is an almost 500 years old Saray (Inn) which is still functional. We actually had our lunch here. The experience is a 'must have' if you visit Bucharest.

The city is filled with stories in every nook and corner. The very brutal communist rule has left an indelible mark on the city and the life in Bucharest. Nicolae Ceaușescu and his wife Elena is remembered, rather hated even now with same vigour as in 1989. I remembered watching clips of the revolution on TV as a child, not vividly but the name did ring a bell. Now could listen to the stories from Romanians and see the places in person. The revolution square is very special for the Romanians and at the same time the guide even made fun on the memorial by calling it a 'Potato on a stick'. Of course he did revere the martyrs but just did not like the memorial much. Good! He could not have made fun of a government project when ruled by communists. He is just enjoying his freedom.

The old historical city Brasov is extremely beautiful. The old town square is still maintained as it was hundreds of years back. There was once a great fire in this city and almost one third of the city burned down. They still have a church which is still called as the 'Black Church' as its walls became black because of this fire. A Lot of superstitions surround this story and church. This city is also known as Kronstadt in German language, as it is surrounded by hill all around which look like a crown placed on the top of the city.

The best part was the visit to Bran's Castle also known as the 'Dracula's castle' immortalised by the movie Dracula, inspired by the very brutal and cruel ruler Vlad the implaler. His story is rather interesting, how his country was under the Ottoman rule, he was forced to spend his life's first 17 years in Constantinople so that Ottoman's can shape his thinking, His return to Romania, his support of the crusaders, his revolt against the Ottomans, his death and 'resurrection'(if you may) and his legend of Dracula. Very interesting.

We also visited Bulgaria. We crossed the border from Romanian city of Giurgiu crossed the river Danube into the old city of 'Ruse'. Very beautiful city with lovely parks, gardens, houses and one special church. When this city was under Ottomans the city's christians wanted to build a church 'The Holy Trinity Cathedral'. They were allowed to build a church with a condition that the church should start five meters under the ground, as no church should be bigger than a mosque. My God is greater than your God. The Rat-race of the Gods!

The city of Veliko Tarnovo is the former capital of Bulgaria. The city on the hill top, has many stunning views and the city itself with cobbled stone paths, brick houses, tiny and many churches is so beautiful to walk around. We also had traditional Bulgarian food. Surprisingly they had nice vegetarian spread too and especially one Brinjal(eggplant) delicacy was superb. I have never eaten Brinjal cooked in this way. We then proceeded to the Tsarevets Fortress having the Baldwin' Tower, Cathedral St. Ascension. The Very old cathedral was severely damaged during the Ottoman's time and of course the muslim rulers did not allow renovation. Finally in the 20th century the inner walls were to be restored and repainted. Unfortunately it was the time of the communists. So instead of usual Christian iconography the inner walls were painted with stories of Bulgarian history. Of course, this irked the clergy. This church was never Sanctified/Blessed and it is now no more used for religious purposes. Such an irony that Communists and Islamists work alike but never do you find a communist party in an islamic country!

The sleepy village of Arbanasi was our last stop in Bulgaria. A very small typical village, farm with peacock (yes! true), Gardens etc., But one unique thing is the 'Church of Nativity'. From outside you cannot identify it as a church. You may think it is a warehouse or horse stable. There is no cross on the church. Reason? Muslim rulers again. The villagers were permitted to build a church with a condition that it should not look like a church from outside (maybe the delicate sentiments will be hurt, as we hear very often). It is as beautiful from inside as it is ugly from outside. Do visit it if you ever go to Bulgaria.

Our last day we reserved for the 'Museum of Villages' in Bucharest. Such a beautiful place. Very nice concept. Many original traditional houses of all regions Romania were either relocated piece by piece or replicated in one place with each one telling its own story. Excellent concept. This reminded me of the DakshinaChitra museum stared by Smt.Deborah Thiagarajan to preserve and exhibit the Traditional homes from different regions of South India.

 

Now coming back to airport and flight experience. On the last day of our tour, we were supposed to return to Frankfurt from Romania, but were stuck in Romania for one more day as our flight got cancelled.....reason.....

All toilets in the aeroplane were not functioning 😂

Really! I am not joking.

We all boarded and were seated for some time, the captain informed us of the problem and the airhostess asked all of us row-by-row, is it ok for all if we take off and continue with our 2.5 hour journey without toilets. (बैठ सकते ढाई घाटे दबा लेके?)😨😂😂. Everybody said okay. Few just nodded, few looked away and smiled. But one lady said "No". No- It is not just a word, it is a complete sentense. And we returned to the terminal and our flight was cancelled.

One extra day of vacation, Flight route and bookings fought over by 200 passengers, routes, sectors changed and finally reached Frankfurt after one day.

Toilet-Ek flight ki vyatha !